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July 07, 2007
Antakya
Writing these from Antakya, 50 km from the Syrian border in Turkey. I am so excited I can barely control myself. I don't think I have ever been so happy about being in a city before. I am in Antakya, Antiochia ad Orontes, the capital of the Seleucid Empire, the provincial seat of the Roman territories in Asia, the third largest city in Rome, bone of contention between the Sasanians and the Romans. Twice sacked by the Sasanians, once the whole population moved to a new city named Weh-Antiok-Khosrow: Better than Antioch of Chosroes! Basically, enough history to last a few months!
Of course, like any other historical city, it is also a real place where people live and work. Based on what I had heard in Istanbul, I was expecting a dusty, run-down, third rate provincial town where you could barely find a bank to exchange your money. Instead, it is a rather large, very nice, quite modern, and very chic city, better provisioned and equipped than many larger cities I have seen, even in Europe (it certainly is easier to find things here than in say, Enschede!). The old town, on the eastern bank of the Orontes, is quite well preserved, with narrow streets and bazaars. The main street is built on top of the old Roman colonaded road and is thus straight and cuts the city in half. Quite many nice local specialties (three tried, all photographed): sweets, great pastry, amazing Kababs, and some unusual things like a very thin type of noodle sold by the bakeries which is then boiled and eaten with a sauce similar to the bolognese sauce. They also still work with silk and make beautiful shawls and scarves and other textile, as well as a range of other handicrafts. The modern city is also quite modern, with uppity people shopping their hearts out!
I cannot get over the history: first Christian church (Grotto of St. Peter), birth place of St. Luke the Evngelist, Barnabas and Paul strated their preaching here; Issus, where Alexander first faced Darius III, is close-by, as is the monestary of Simeon the Stylite the Younger. You can still see the remnants of the Justinianic fortification on top of the mountains. This is also where Libanius lived and St. John Chrysostom was born, plus a host of other early church fathers. To top it all off, my hotle is in Daphne, the site of the famed temple of Appollo which when burnt by the Christians in 362 AD, caused a violent reaction from Julian the Apostate (my absolute favourite Roman empror). In short, I am in a dorkish historical heaven... pictures shall follow...
Posted by Khodadad at July 7, 2007 01:52 PM
Comments
Your enthusiam for Antioch is infectious Khodadad! :) I await your pictures.
Posted by: David at July 7, 2007 09:43 PM
I can not believe!!!!! I love Antakya so much! I really miss it very much! And I found a person who has recently visited it!Your story about Antakya is very interesting. I used to live there for 2 years and I would like to return! That`s really very nice city! Special city! Food! People!Some people can not understand me, but I think that this place is ideal for living even if there are not any modern entertaiments.
Thank you!
Posted by: Olga at October 26, 2007 06:01 AM