« June 2007 | Main | August 2007 »
July 10, 2007
More photos
Iran (i.e. dial-up internet) is coming up, so here are a few more additions to the Istanbul and Antioch pictures...
Even more interesting stories about meeting two Kurdish guys who are studying history and archaeology and are dying to go to Iran. But I will tell you about it along with the tale of my weird flight from Adana...
Posted by Khodadad at 10:50 AM | Comments (1)
July 08, 2007
More pics!
Here are some more pictures from Antakya and Samandagh (Seleucia Pieria).
Antioch is officially called "Hatay" in Turkish, although Antakya is much more commonly used. One of my Turkish friends had told me that this has something to do with the Kamalists (followers of Ataturk) and their assertion that Turks have lived in the Antioch area since time immemorial. He said that this was to forge an identity for Antakya in the Turkish republic, as it was actually part of Syria until 1939. Apparently, the name "Hatay" was chosen to suggest that the Turkish people from "Khatay" (Cathay) have lived there from the ancient times.
I knew that in modern Turkish, the distinct sounds of "h" (as in hello), kh (as in German ch in doch) and gluttal H3 (exists in Semitic languages and often confused by the Europeans with the kh sound) have been simplified to "h", so, a "khan" like Chengiz Khan is Jengiz Han in Turkish, and Khane (Persian for "house") is han and H3ussain is hüsayin. But I still could not get it why the Khatay Turks (from the Chinese Turkishtan, the area of Kashghar) should have ended up in Antakya, even in an obvious political ploy.
Then I think I figured it out. The Antakya-Aleppo area was invaded by Hattusili II of the Hittites a long time ago. It was, as with the Hittite homeland itself, populated by the Hatti (written with the H3 in Assyrian and Hittite cuneiform). Remnants of the Hatti and Hittite presence can still be seen (a picture is included in the collection I put up). So, it seems that in haste to make a political claim, the leaders of the young Turkish republic connected two unrelated words (Khatay and H3atti) and since it sounded the same to them (Hatay and Hatti), decided that they indeed are the same. You see how misleading half-baked knowledge can be?
Well, in the end, it seems to have worked alright. Most Antiochians today know Arabic, but they all speak Turkish and the younger generation is obviously much more comfortable with it, as it is the only language used in schools. Signs are all in Turkish, as is all official business. Antioch is now more Turkish than Syrian, and no one is complaining!
Posted by Khodadad at 03:24 PM | Comments (1)
July 07, 2007
Antakya
Writing these from Antakya, 50 km from the Syrian border in Turkey. I am so excited I can barely control myself. I don't think I have ever been so happy about being in a city before. I am in Antakya, Antiochia ad Orontes, the capital of the Seleucid Empire, the provincial seat of the Roman territories in Asia, the third largest city in Rome, bone of contention between the Sasanians and the Romans. Twice sacked by the Sasanians, once the whole population moved to a new city named Weh-Antiok-Khosrow: Better than Antioch of Chosroes! Basically, enough history to last a few months!
Of course, like any other historical city, it is also a real place where people live and work. Based on what I had heard in Istanbul, I was expecting a dusty, run-down, third rate provincial town where you could barely find a bank to exchange your money. Instead, it is a rather large, very nice, quite modern, and very chic city, better provisioned and equipped than many larger cities I have seen, even in Europe (it certainly is easier to find things here than in say, Enschede!). The old town, on the eastern bank of the Orontes, is quite well preserved, with narrow streets and bazaars. The main street is built on top of the old Roman colonaded road and is thus straight and cuts the city in half. Quite many nice local specialties (three tried, all photographed): sweets, great pastry, amazing Kababs, and some unusual things like a very thin type of noodle sold by the bakeries which is then boiled and eaten with a sauce similar to the bolognese sauce. They also still work with silk and make beautiful shawls and scarves and other textile, as well as a range of other handicrafts. The modern city is also quite modern, with uppity people shopping their hearts out!
I cannot get over the history: first Christian church (Grotto of St. Peter), birth place of St. Luke the Evngelist, Barnabas and Paul strated their preaching here; Issus, where Alexander first faced Darius III, is close-by, as is the monestary of Simeon the Stylite the Younger. You can still see the remnants of the Justinianic fortification on top of the mountains. This is also where Libanius lived and St. John Chrysostom was born, plus a host of other early church fathers. To top it all off, my hotle is in Daphne, the site of the famed temple of Appollo which when burnt by the Christians in 362 AD, caused a violent reaction from Julian the Apostate (my absolute favourite Roman empror). In short, I am in a dorkish historical heaven... pictures shall follow...
Posted by Khodadad at 01:52 PM | Comments (2)
July 06, 2007
More pics
I took over 500 pictures, of the city, the museums, pottery, statues, everything. Here are 43 of them, tell me if you want more!:P
Posted by Khodadad at 07:53 AM | Comments (2)
July 03, 2007
ًQuick Istanbul
German Train Strike: 200 km driving to get to the airport
Istanbul at 4:30 pm, immediatly proceeding to the Hagia Sophia (Justinian's church of the Holy Wisdom)...
People watching for three hours, enthusiasim preventing self from getting back to the hotel...
Splitting headache, but extreme delight...
Will write more later, "ja, so mir gott"! For the time being, enjoy this one!
Posted by Khodadad at 12:04 PM | Comments (2)
July 01, 2007
Pics
I am learning how to work with Picasa so I can upload my photos easier and hopefully also faster. So far, 14 of them. Tell me how it is and I am also going to upload more soon...
Posted by Khodadad at 02:49 AM | Comments (2)